This a short-term ‘vision team,’ with a focus upon introduction, education and connection, and a goal of discerning God’s call to global engagement, and partnership development.
Day 7
It’s hard to imagine a better start to the day than watching the first colors of morning and the sunrise over Matanzas Bay. The east end of the Seminario Evangelico de Teologia (SET) campus in Matanzas (which sits on a hill overlooking the city and the bay) offers a perfect view.
This morning is a little busier as we put the final touches on packing. Following breakfast, we shall be back on the road, heading for Havana, the center of another presbytery in the Presbyterian Reformed Church in Cuba, and the final stage of our mission trip.
At breakfast, and all mealtimes, “El Comedor” is a center for the campus community as students and faculty, staff and guests gather for food and fellowship. It is a pleasant time of interaction among all members of the seminary family. Following our farewells to our SET friends and family, we were on our way.
We quite literally ‘took the high road’ on our way from Matanzas to Havana, on a highway that followed a mountain ridge between the two cities, and afforded wonderful views on both sides. To the north is Matanzas Bay and the channel that connects it to the sea, then the sea itself. To the south are lush valleys, and another range of mountains ... A REMARKABLE ACHIEVEMENT - we actually left early today, which gave us time to stop for photos and refreshments at a very popular overlook at Mirador de Bacuyanaga. In addition to wonderful views in all directions there is a large selection of postcards and souvenir t-shirts, arts and crafts, a snack bar, live music, and cold beverages ... including cocktails served in hollowed-out pineapples. Following that stop, the highway descends to sea level and we follow the island’s northern coastline to Havana, where we get glimpses of the island’s resort industry, as well as the oil/gas industry of the state-operated CuPet.
As explained in a previous post, our presence in Cuba is not only devoted to learning about the body of Christ at work in this island nation, but also a better understanding of the nation itself, the setting within which our brothers and sisters in Christ are at work, sharing His love through word and deed.
That is why, as we approached Havana, we stopped in the neighborhood of San Francisco de Paola, municipality of San Miguel del Padron, city of Havana, for a visit to the Ernest Hemingway Museum, in what was once “Papa’s” home in Cuba. This island was a part of Hemingway’s life, both before and after the revolution of the 1950’s, and the people and the culture here provided the inspiration for a number of his works. In addition to providing a glimpse of his life, the museum also offers souvenir shops with copies of his books (in English and Spanish), live music, and beverages that include a locally-distilled rum produced especially for him, and in his memory.
Continuing into Havana, our next stop is the Iglesia Presbyteriana Reformada de Luyano (Luyano is a district of Havana), which will also be our home for the remainder of our stay in Cuba. After being shown to our rooms, we had lunch in the church’s fellowship hall, where met our host, Rev. Daniel Izquiero, a former general secretary of the Presbyterian Church of Cuba.
Another cultural stop, on the way to our next church visit, is Revolutionary Square, one of the hearts of this city, where monuments and buildings honor Jose Marti, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara. This large square is gathering place of special significance ... for example, the past three Popes have come here during their visits to Cuba, and were greeted by large and enthusiastic crowds.
Our next church visit for the day was Primera Iglesia Presbyteriana-Reformada of Havana. Esther, an elder and longtime member of this church family, greeted us on behalf of Rev. Liudmilla Hernandez, who was away from the church today ... in fact, Rev. Hernandez was at the seminary in Matanzas, where we met her over breakfast this morning!
‘1st Havana’ has a long history, tied closely to the history of this country, we learned. Built in 1906, it was the first Protestant church in Havana, and the focus of many ‘firsts’ in the history of Cuba’s faith community - the formation of the first presbytery, the establishment/development of the Presbyterian Reformed Church, and inter-denominational assemblies. In 1998, when Pope John Paul II made his historic visit to Cuba, the 1st Havana pulpit was transported to the Plaza of the Revolution, where the Pope used it while conducting mass.
1st Havana is the largest Cuban church we have visited, with 300 active member, and others who are tied in some way to the church. Like so many churches in cuba, they’re was a need - and prayers - for a pastor here ... those prayers were answered when Rev. Hernandez received her call, less than a year ago.
Monday through Friday, a medical doctor is - literally - on-call at the church. They also have a prayer house open to all, every Tuesday. Also on Tuesdays is a weekly school for the elderly. Monday-Wednesday-Friday mornings, they have tai chi. On Thursday evening’s it’s Bible study led by the pastor. The church’s library is open all day, and open to all.
They are looking to expand their services, with more opportunities for youth in the community. Already they are finding ways to serve children affected in some way by drug abuse, domestic violence and inadequate housing.
Among those attending 1st Havana are students from Africa, visiting Cuba for medical studies. These students also helped create a choral program, in partnership with the church’s choir.
Following Esther’s presentation, we toured the 1st Havana campus, its classrooms and service areas, its offices and residences. From the roof top, where the laundry is hung to dry, we got a good view of the surrounding neighborhood.
We have heard before of how Christian people were persecuted in this country, and the was true here, as well ... during Q&A following the tour, we learn that at one point, the church only had 30-40 active members, and now has 300. At one point, it was forbidden to bring Bibles into the country ... but in the 1960s, as the country moved toward increased literacy, there were those who learned to read with the Bible.
More history and culture after our church visit, we drove by many of Havana’s landmarks on our way to the Square of St. Francis, while walking around this area and the nearby Plaza Vieja, we learned about the culture of the community, its history, its art, its characters, and so much more. We saw a LOT of construction work taking place in this area as renovations prepare for the city’s upcoming anniversary celebration. This promises to be a VERY busy area next year during that celebration, as visitors include those embarking from cruise ships, just two blocks away from the square.
Following this walking tour, our team returned to Luyano, ending the day with dinner and fellowship. Dinner is at a restaurant called La Catedral. Established in 2013, it is an example of what is called a ‘private restaurant’ and is not operated or managed by the state, but rather by private individuals. These individuals are responsible for management of the restaurant, its menu, its staff, its services and its supplies, as well as state fees and taxes. We care told that they are becoming popular, and are adding a new dimension to dining in Cuba ... and another example of the changes taking place in Cuban society (like the hostels noted in an earlier post).
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